One recent morning, a couple of friends and I set out to find a trailhead that leads to Flat Top Mesa, located north of Pioneertown, not far from Pappy and Harriet’s and Pioneertown Mountains Preserve.
During our search, we got diverted—and unintentionally found another flat-topped mesa instead: Black Lava Butte, a mesa with a dark basalt cap featuring remnants from ancient lava flows. It’s one of most amazing hidden gems I’ve come across in the high desert area.
Black Lava Butte Trail is a short, easy, out-and-back trail, a touch less than 2 miles, with an elevation gain of less than 170 feet—a very gradual incline. The short scenic trail features lava rocks galore, breathtaking views and an abundance of natural rock formations that may leave you wondering: How in the world could these boulders have been so perfectly (or magically) placed?
The area is like having a little slice of Joshua Tree National Park all to yourself. There were no other hikers; in fact, we saw no other humans the entire time we spent there. Although the terrain is very similar to Joshua Tree National Park, Black Lave Butte is co-managed by the Bureau of Land Management and the U.S. Forest Service.
About 10 minutes into the hike, you’ll come to an area with huge boulders, just off the trail along the right side. Look closely, and you can find ancient petroglyphs etched into many of the boulders all around this area. These carvings were created thousands of years ago by the Serrano (Yuhaaviatam—“People of the Pines”) people who occupied this region. You will find mortars—grinding bowls carved into the rock—as well. It’s amazing to see and feel the peace, majesty and history of this area. It is such an extraordinary experience; you can actually feel the spiritual energy here.
As you continue through the canyon (between the mesas), the trail comes to a high point of more than 4,300 feet in elevation. At this point, the canyon walls open up and create an awesome sight: the most prominent viewpoint of Black Lava Butte. In the distance to the northeast is Flat Top Butte (the mesa we originally intended to find). You’ll also see the corridor of State Route 247 (Old Woman Springs Road, which leads from Yucca Valley to Lucerne Valley) and beyond. To the northwest, you’ll look across fossilized volcanic rock from millions of years ago, the desert floor, and toward distant peaks. If you make the climb to the top of the mesas—we didn’t on this trip, but plan to go back—you will have panoramic views.
The most challenging part of the hike is finding the trailhead! We only found it by chance; our GPS took us to Curtis Drive from Pipes Canyon Road, which is incorrect. Instead, follow the advice as stated on AllTrails (www.alltrails.com/trail/us/california/black-lava-butte-trail), or follow these specific turn-by-turn directions.
From the Coachella Valley, take Highway 62 toward Yucca Valley, and turn left onto Pioneertown Road, where you will continue for about 4.5 miles, and veer right just past Pappy and Harriet’s. From there, it’s another three miles to Pipes Canyon Road, where you will turn right and drive just more than two miles, where you will turn left onto Acacia Avenue. (This is the only route in from Pipes Canyon Road. Again, do not take Curtis Drive; you will end up on private property where signage is clearly posted.) Be warned: Acacia Avenue is a rough and bumpy dirt road. While four-wheel drive is not necessary, you will want a high-clearance vehicle with good tires.
Take Acacia for a half-mile or so, almost to the end, and turn right onto Boulder View. You’ll be on Boulder View for nearly a mile—you’ll know you’re getting close when you see the bright pink house—before reaching a small pullout parking area along the right side of the dirt road. Be sure to stop here! Do not proceed any further, as you will be on private property, and you’ll be looking at a sign that closely resembles a “STOP” sign—except it’s green, filled with bullet holes, and says, “GO AWAY!” The trailhead is just across the dirt road from the small parking area. You’ll see a narrow signpost with a Bureau of Land Management logo at the top that says “closed route”—but underneath, there’s a narrow label tape across the signpost that says, “HIKING IS OK!” Beyond that sign, another signpost states that there is no access to off-highway vehicles, but hiking is permitted. This is where the trail begins.
Be fully prepared for a desert exposure, as there is no shade or water in this area. It is best to start early or go later in the afternoon, and only go during the times of year when there are cooler temperatures. Please help protect these sacred grounds by being respectful, especially around the petroglyphs. View them from a distance. Oil from your skin can damage them, and they’re irreplaceable.
Leave everything as you find it. Take only pictures and leave only footsteps—and have an amazing time!
