When desert trails become unbearable due to the high heat of summer, head just 25 to 30 minutes west of Palm Springs for a step back in time.
Tucked along the western edge of the Coachella Valley, just north of Interstate 10 in Banning, the Gilman Historic Ranch and Wagon Museum offers a hiking/touring experience unlike any other in the area. While many local hikes feature dramatic peaks or sweeping desert vistas, the Gilman Ranch Trail offers a blend of scenic foothill hiking and living history—while providing a refreshing escape from the intense desert heat; Banning is often at least 10 degrees cooler than the Coachella Valley.
The Gilman Ranch Trail is not just a hike—it is a journey through time, tracing the footsteps of Native Americans, pioneers and stagecoach travelers who traversed the San Gorgonio Pass on the Bradshaw Trail. The 180-mile overland stage route, established in the 1800s, linked Southern California to Arizona’s gold fields.
The Gilman Ranch Trail is a moderate and short hike (just less than 2 miles out and back) with an elevation gain of about 426 feet. It typically takes around one to two hours to complete, but don’t be in a hurry; it offers a fascinating look into 19th-century frontier life. I experienced this firsthand while attending a group hike with the Blue Zones Project Banning, a community program focused on improving health and well‑being (www.bluezonesprojectbanning.com).
As you tour the grounds listening to the beautiful sounds of a variety of songbirds, you’ll stroll by a peaceful year-round spring in a shaded canyon near the trailhead. The water source attracts a variety of wildlife. Just before the creek, you’ll notice an old gold-panning area; panning is still a thing today, often offered during events and when “Gilman Ranch Hands” (volunteers) are available.
The property is rich with artifacts from another era. You’ll find grinding stones used by Native Americans, a blacksmith shop, a tack room, olive-curing sheds, and a variety of vintage tools and equipment dating back to the late 1800s and early 1900s. Nearby are the protected ruins of the José Pope Adobe, the first permanent structure in the San Gorgonio Pass. Built as a bunkhouse for cattlemen, it later became the home, store and stage stop of James Marshall Gilman after he purchased the property in 1869. Gilman eventually built a larger ranch house, which burned in 1977; a rebuilt version now stands on the property.
The diversity of trees includes oak, cottonwood, palms and even an incense cedar—you’ll find the latter behind the museum, in the native plant garden. Our volunteer hiking guide, Susan Savolainen—who is also the Ranch Hands membership coordinator, among other duties—pointed out a 100-year-old fig tree on the hill near the house. It’s the most beautiful and picture-perfect tree I’ve ever seen. If you’re standing in front of the old ranch house, look to the right of the house, and you’ll see it.
Bring a snack or lunch with you to take a break and enjoy the picnic area. It includes many nice picnic tables (recently painted by Susan and her husband), all shaded by olive trees planted by the Gilmans more than 100 years ago. Barbecue grills are also available for public use, and you’ll find a variety of fruit and nut trees located in the orchard near the picnic area. (More shade!) The property has wide open green spaces to enjoy as well. It’s fun for the whole family, including dogs on leash.
Volunteers play a major role in keeping this historic site thriving. The aforementioned Gilman Ranch Hands, a nonprofit volunteer group, supports preservation, events and educational programs. If you’re interested in getting involved, learn more at www.facebook.com/gilmanranchhands.
If you want to hike early in the morning or late in the evenings when the ranch is closed, you can park at Wilson and 16th Street, and enter from the dirt service road, according to AllTrails. The trail begins near the ranch grounds on the other side of the creek. Look for a bench on the right with two bushes; the trail starts there. The path climbs steadily—occasionally steeply—through low desert vegetation and scrub. There’s a series of benches along the hillside for rest and scenic stops. The trail tops off at 2,950 feet; you’ll enjoy sweeping views of the Banning Bench, an elevated plateau known for its cooler climate and vistas of the San Jacinto Mountains. The trail continues briefly before reaching a fence marking the turnaround point.
If you want to hike early in the morning or late in the evenings when the ranch is closed, you can park at Wilson and 16th Street, and enter from the dirt service road.
You may see cattle and horses from nearby ranches. We saw cattle grazing in the distance—and we saw a section of missing fence as well, so the livestock could possibly roam into the hiking area. At times, it’s difficult to differentiate the trail from the open field.
Even though it’s a little cooler in Banning, you’ll want to start the day early in the summer months. I suggest doing the hike before visiting the rest of the ranch and museum, because it is a good idea to be off the trail by noon; there’s not much shade along the hillside, and no shade at all once you reach the top of the hill.
Be sure to bring plenty of water, snacks, sunscreen and a hat. Wear proper hiking shoes, and watch your step—snakes are around! We saw a huge gopher snake near the museum. Hiking poles are recommended for the short but steep hillside climb.
The Gilman Ranch is truly a gem worth discovering, whether you’re looking for a short hike, a family outing or a chance just to step into the past. I know I’ll be back soon!
Gilman Historic Ranch and Wagon Museum, home of the largest public collection of wagons, buggies and stagecoaches in the Inland Empire, is operated by the Riverside County Regional Park and Open-Space District. It is located at 1901 Wilson St., in Banning, just north of Interstate 10—take the Eighth Street exit north, and turn left onto Wilson Street. Within a half mile, you’ll see the yellow ranch house on the hillside. The ranch and museum are open Tuesday through Saturday, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., with house tours typically offered on Saturdays for a small additional fee. Admission is currently $6 per adult, and $3 per child under 12 years of age. Learn more at rivcoparks.org/historic-sites-nature-centers/gilman-historic-ranch-and-wagon-museum.
