There is a new wine shop in town—a rare treat for us desert denizens.
It’s actually a reimagining of one of the desert’s few wine shops, Dan’s. No longer will you be greeted by Dan; most days of the week, you’ll find Matt Young, a tall, friendly, handsome young man who looks like a football player. There’s a reason for that: When he moved to the desert back in 2006, he was all set to play football for College of the Desert. However, an injury prevented him from playing, so he entered the fire academy to become a smoke-jumper, but he suffered another injury. He briefly trained as a fire inspector, but knew he “could not sit at a desk.” Shortly thereafter, Young found himself returning to the family business—hospitality and service.
Young grew up in Paso Robles, where his parents owned and operated restaurants. There, he was surrounded by wine and food, but didn’t really take to it until he started working at Roy’s in Rancho Mirage, where he met the woman who would become his wife; they fell in love with one another—and wine.
He continued working in restaurants and set up beer and wine programs across the valley. He was part of the opening staff and a manager at Whole Foods, and at the La Quinta Brewing Tap Room in Old Town La Quinta. Now he’s running the show at Desert Wine Shop, which promotes smaller and local wineries. You’ll still find your old favorites—but be sure to talk to Young about the store’s unique offerings. He and his partners hope to expand throughout the North America.
We chatted at the shop, where he answered phone calls, greeted vendors and helped customers—while simultaneously talking to me and tasting some Provencal rose: the 2016 Domaine de Cala.
The shop features tastings every Friday from 4 to 6 p.m. It is at 73360 Highway 111 in Palm Desert; visit www.desertwineshop.com for more information.
When did you first start getting into wine?
I grew up in Paso Robles, so wine has always been a part of my life. When I really started getting into wine is when I started dating my wife. We were both working at Roy’s, and we were put through a wine course, and we had planned a trip to Napa as well. After that trip and realizing this is what I grew up in, it hit me—and I have had the wine bug ever since.
What was your first wine love?
I have two: One, the 2009 Laetitia Estate pinot noir from Arroyo Grande. It was and is a medium-bodied, bright-red wine with fruit, medium tannins and clean acidity; it’s a food-friendly wine. Two, the 2005 Franciscan Napa merlot. I found both of these wines at CVS, and the merlot was on sale for $10. I will never forget it. I was just getting into wine, so I didn’t know much, and I had got off work late one night and wanted to grab some wine. I went into CVS, of all places, because it was down the street from my house, and they are open 24 hours. I looked around at the labels and varietals. I knew I liked merlots, pinot noir, red blends and some zinfandels at the time, so I grabbed six bottles and some other stuff and called it a night. When I got home, I opened the Franciscan merlot and was immediately hooked. The aromas that were coming out of the bottle were just so good, and in the glass, it was so smooth that I couldn’t stop drinking it. I went back the next day to see if they had any more, because at that price, I felt like I found a winner. When I left, there had still been six bottles. I got there, and they were sold out! I was so bummed.
The Laetitia was the first wine my wife and I took with us on our first vacation together to Laguna Beach. I had a seafood cioppino, and the pinot with the dinner was the first time I had done a real food pairing that blew me away.
What’s exciting about wine to you right now?
What isn’t exciting? The more I learn, the more I get excited, whether it’s a winemaker coming out with a new project, a new (American viticultural area) being designated, a wine that is so over-delivering for what you paid for it, showing someone a new wine they would have never thought to try—so many things excite me when it comes to wine.
What is the best part of your job at Desert Wine Shop?
Getting to know people’s palates and showing them something new that they would not have thought to try—educating people on the differences between areas and styles. (I get) to try new wines or wines that are rarely seen outside of restaurants or the wineries, and meet the winemakers, growers and owners—my job simply rocks. I get to do what I love and get paid to do it.
Your desert island wine?
I have tasted so many incredible wines that I could not choose just one, but I would not be mad if I got to drink a 2004 Merryvale Profile one more time.
Favorite food pairing?
Gewurztraminer with sushi. I do love a big red and steak, or syrah with a pork chop. Food and wine just don’t do you wrong.
Favorite wine book?
For education purposes and easy reading material, you can’t go wrong with Windows on the World by Kevin Zraly. I also really like The Wine Bible by Karen MacNeil.
What do you love about the desert?
It’s big, but small. There is plenty to do, and if what you want isn’t here, then we are only two hours away from whatever you want to do.
Your favorite places to go in the desert?
Honestly, I don’t go out as much as I used to. Now it’s all about my kids, so wherever they like to go is where I like to go. But on the rare occasion that we get to go out by ourselves, we are always looking at new places all over the valley. That is the great thing about the desert: You can find things new, delicious, interesting, cool and fun all over the valley.
Palm Springs native Christine Soto is a co-owner of Dead or Alive wine bar in Palm Springs. She can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.