This is a mediocre picture of an excellent sandwich.

What: The Don Veto sandwich

Where: Larry’s Gourmet Market, 2781 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs

How much: $7.99 (8 inches); $12.99 (12 inches).

Contact: 760-832-7188; larrysgourmetmarket.com

Why: It’s a damn good sandwich.

From North Palm Canyon Drive, Larry’s Gourmet Market does not look like much.

I’ve zoomed by the reddish brick-walled building many times and have never really given it a first thought, let alone a second one. However, I once overheard someone raving about the sandwiches there. Then a friend sang those sandwiches’ praises to me. Thus, I decided it was time to check out Larry’s for myself.

I was the only customer inside the cute market (which, by the way, features a great selection of liquor and wine). I went up to the deli and asked the pleasant woman behind the counter what sandwich she recommended; she suggested the Don Veto, with roast beef, capicola, mortadella, salami, provolone, veggies and Larry’s “famous” vinaigrette dressing. As my side, I picked the house-made pasta salad over potato salad and coleslaw.

She said several sandwich orders had come in before mine, so I’d have a brief wait. I sat down at one of a very small handful of tables and chairs … and watched and listened as a steady stream of orders got called in. I may have been the only customer actually at the market at the time, but I was far from the market’s only customer.

Turns out Larry’s—which also offers pizzas, salads, hot dogs and some Mediterranean specialties—does a lot of call-in business, and also offers delivery, for a $15 charge or more, depending on your Coachella Valley location.

After a brief wait, my sandwich was ready, and I took it home to eat it. It was splendid—the roll was crispy and flavorful, and that “famous” vinaigrette added a perfect tangy and sweet complement to the salty and savory meats.

Good stuff. Sandwiches are one of my favorite foods … and Larry’s is now one of my favorite local sandwich places.

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Jimmy Boegle

Jimmy Boegle is the founding editor and publisher of the Coachella Valley Independent. He is also the executive editor and publisher of the Reno News & Review in Reno, Nev. A native of Reno, the Dodgers...

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