We all have our go-to summer wine. Some of us are firmly in the “rosé all day” camp, while others can be found reaching for a chilled bottle of sauvignon blanc.
But this year, it’s time to open your mind and embrace a wine that is considered the finest white wine in the world: riesling. Often misunderstood as too sweet or too “old fashioned,” this noble grape is making a comeback.
Before you roll your eyes and think of the sugary Blue Nun riesling your aunt used to pour at family gatherings, let’s set the record straight: I’m talking dry, refreshing and so crisp, it practically does a happy dance on your tongue. In fact, most dry rieslings have less residual sugar than a New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Honest!
So, why all the hype about riesling? Well, riesling is not just a grape; it’s an experience. Often referred to as one of the noble grapes—right up there with pinot noir, chardonnay, and cabernet sauvignon—riesling offers a combination of purity, balance and versatility that few other wines can match. Quite simply, riesling is the most expressive grape out there. It takes on the unique qualities of where it’s grown, and there’s a riesling for practically every palate. From the steely, mineral-driven styles from Germany’s Mosel region to the fruit-forward, floral notes from Australia’s Eden Valley, riesling is versatile; it’s fun; and it pairs beautifully with so many foods.
That’s why sommeliers like Paul Grieco (who started the whole “Summer of Riesling” movement back in 2008) have been shouting about riesling from the rooftops. He recognized that while the world was obsessed with heavier, oaky wines, riesling was quietly doing its thing—being the perfect pairing partner for everything from sushi to spicy Thai to barbecue, thanks to its crisp acidity, low alcohol, fruity undertones and occasional mineral qualities.
Don’t get me wrong. Sauvignon blanc is a great wine, but it can sometimes come off as too aggressive—those sharp grassy and herbal notes can overwhelm more delicate dishes. As for rosé, while it’s undeniably refreshing, it can sometimes lack the complexity and depth that a wine like riesling brings to the table. Plus, let’s be real: Not all rosés are created equal. A good dry riesling is like the Goldilocks of summer wines—not too light, not too heavy, not too bold and not too boring. It’s just right.
If you’re looking to experience some of the producers that are making waves, here are a few of my favorite rieslings to try.
Pewsey Vale Dry Riesling (Eden Valley, Australia): Australia may not be the first place you think of for riesling, but the Pewsey Vale Dry Riesling from Eden Valley is a game-changer. Pewsey Vale has been crafting riesling since the 1960s, and the current winemaker, Louisa Rose, is a recognized expert in the field of riesling production. She was previously the chief winemaker at Yalumba, another legendary Australian winery, but her role at Pewsey Vale gives her the opportunity to focus on producing some of the most distinctive and exceptional rieslings in Australia. Known for its zesty acidity and flavors of green apple, lime and a touch of tropical fruit, this is knock-your-socks-off crisp.
Hubert Meyer Riesling (Alsace, France): While Australia may be home to some excellent rieslings, Alsace, France, is the original playground for this noble grape. Alsace is to riesling what Bordeaux is to cabernet sauvignon, and Hubert Meyer is one of the standout producers in this region. Unlike some regions where winemakers have to fight with the elements, Alsace offers a perfect combination of cool nights and sunny days during the growing season, which allows riesling grapes to ripen slowly. The granite and limestone soils of the area contribute to the fresh acidity and mineral backbone that makes Alsatian riesling so celebrated. The Hubert Meyer Riesling offers classic Alsace characteristics: bright acidity, fresh citrus flavors (lemon, lime, green apple) and a signature mineral quality that gives it depth and character.
If you’re a fan of fine wines (or just feel like sounding like a wine expert at your next dinner party), you should know the term “grosses gewächs.” It’s a German classification used to designate the highest quality rieslings from the country’s most prestigious vineyards.
Philipp Bassler Grosses Gewächs (Pfalz, Germany): If you’re a fan of fine wines (or just feel like sounding like a wine expert at your next dinner party), you should know the term “grosses gewächs.” It’s a German classification used to designate the highest quality rieslings from the country’s most prestigious vineyards. Think of it as the “Reserve” or “Grand Cru” label, except it applies exclusively to riesling. This means the wine comes from some of the best terroirs, where the vines are carefully tended to, and the grapes are picked with an almost obsessive level of care. Germany is, of course, riesling’s home turf, and the Philipp Bassler Grosses Gewächs is a perfect example of what the region can do. Coming from the Pfalz area, this wine is dry with notes of ripe peach, citrus and a touch of slate-like minerality. It’s elegant and has great aging potential, but it’s also super-drinkable in its youth.
Trefethen Dry Riesling (Napa Valley): It’s hard to believe, but there was a time when Napa Valley’s vineyards were almost entirely planted with riesling. Yep, back in the 1950s and ’60s, Napa was practically the riesling capital of California. But along the way, as consumers preferences and palates shifted, Napa began to focus on other grapes like cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. While these varieties now dominate the valley, riesling still holds a special place in the region’s history—and with good reason. Napa’s cooler microclimates and diverse terroir make it a perfect home for the grape, producing wines with a vibrant profile that’s balanced and fresh. So if you’re ever in the mood to get nostalgic, consider opening a Trefethen Dry Riesling from the Oak Knoll district in Napa. It’s a nod to the past, with crisp notes of green apple and lime, and just a hint of floral aromas, making it the ideal drink for when you need to cool off in the desert heat.
You can see why riesling is the ideal summer wine, with its versatility, low alcohol content and ability to pair with a variety of foods. So crack open a bottle, and join the Summer of Riesling.