Join me on a scenic and spiritual adventure as we leave the Coachella Valley to explore San Diego County’s tallest peak, accessed through the private and sacred grounds of Los Coyotes Reservation.
The drive takes about an hour and a half from Palm Desert, depending on traffic. The scenic route via Highway 74 (Palms to Pines Highway) offers stunning mountain views. Turn left at the Highway 371 junction, toward Highway 79 south, and then go left at Highway 79 where Highway 371 ends. From there, it’s about 20 miles or so to your next turn. After traveling through Warner Springs, you’ll turn left onto Camino San Ignacio. There’s only one way in—and this is it—to the private and sacred grounds of Los Coyotes Reservation.
Los Coyotes Reservation is managed by the Los Coyotes Band of Cahuilla and Cupeño Indians, and was federally established in 1889. Located in northeastern San Diego County, and spanning more than 25,000 acres between Anza-Borrego Desert State Park and Cleveland National Forest, it is the largest reservation in the county and home of the highest point, Hot Springs Mountain. (The mountain is not to be confused with the actual hot springs located at Warner Springs Ranch.) The tribe grants public access for camping and hiking on their land. Dogs on leash are welcome. Permits may be purchased online (day use/hiking is $11; camping $26.50, including the fees) at www.loscoyotestribe.org, or without fees at the ranger station.
The pups and I recently took a road trip to check it out. We met up with a couple of friends, and it turned into an amazing overnight camping adventure. Once you enter the reservation, you may not want to leave. The beauty and solitude captivate you along the drive, even before you reach the reservation.
Along the way, we passed by the iconic Eagle Rock, a prominent and natural rock formation resembling an eagle, that can be seen from Camino San Ignacio. You can even see a part of the scenic section of the Pacific Crest Trail that is very close to Eagle Rock. However, trail access is not allowed from this point. To reach Eagle Rock via the PCT trailhead, begin at the cattle gate, next to the bridge, just off Highway 79 near the Warner Springs Fire Station (but do not park at the station; parking is allowed at the community resource center). It’s an easy and popular trail that’s a bit more than six miles long, with less than 900 feet of elevation gain. You’ll enjoy views of Mount Palomar and other notable landmarks. Dogs on leash are welcome. Parts can heat up quickly on warm days, so be sure to take at least one liter of water per hour, and wear proper hiking gear, a hat and sun protection. Allow yourself at least two to three hours to complete this one.
Continuing on toward Los Coyotes Reservation, we suddenly found ourselves stopped in the roadway mesmerized by a huge wild turkey, meandering across the road right in front of our eyes. It was a surreal and unforgettable moment.
At the ranger station, we checked in and paid the day-use fee; they accept cash or card. After another 2.5 miles or so, the paved road turned into a graded dirt road at the entrance gate/stop sign. The gate is open seven days a week from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., May through September, and 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., September through May. From there, it’s another mile or so to trailhead parking (you’ll see the sign) and the campground area.
We were fortunate enough to receive an invite and escort onto the reservation by a close friend who helps with trail and ground maintenance there. My friend took us on an open-air Jeep tour of the campgrounds and surrounding areas of the reservation. It was awesome!
At the base of Hot Springs Mountain, we picked our campsite and settled into the evening. As darkness fell, we were greeted with a canopy of stars shining bright among the tall trees. With the calming mix of sounds from the crickets, toads and other-night dwellers, the campground transformed into a tranquil haven—you truly feel the spiritual energy.
There are multiple, basic campsites, but there is little to no cellular service, and there are no electric hookups. Pit toilets are available. All water must be packed in, and glass bottles are not allowed. Check-in for camping is at 1 p.m.; check-out is at 11 a.m. You can have up to four people and one car per campsite booking. Guests must adhere to all tribal, state and federal laws, and be sure to adhere to all posted signs, and read the health and safety section posted on the website when purchasing your permit.
The area brings cooler temperatures after sunset. During summer months, nighttime lows are usually around 50-60 degrees, while in the winter, it can dip to 30 degrees or below. (It was a perfect 57 degrees overnight while we were there.) It can heat up during the day, into the 90s and possibly 100s during the summer.
We didn’t hike the Hot Springs Mountain Trail on this trip. It leads to the highest point in San Diego County, at just more than 6,500 feet, and is nearly 10 miles out and back with an elevation gain of more than 2,400 feet. We visited with a couple of women (one who happened to be a friend of my friend) after they finished the trail. They were in top shape and completed the trail in less than 4 1/2 hours. It was the first time on the trail for one of them, and she described it as a “super cool hike overall!” She went on to say that the final scramble to reach the top took her two tries, adding: “You’ve got to do it. The views are awesome. The fire tower lookout was awesome to see, but don’t be fooled; it is not the summit. You have to go around the fire tower and scramble to the top.”
They said the trail was a bit buggy and was heating up their way back down, around 10 a.m. The first 2.5 miles of this trail are the most difficult and are exposed to the sun, so you’ll want to get an early start (5:30 or 6 a.m.; you can get permission to start early) during summer months. The peak is known for its diverse ecosystems, including chaparrals, oaks and pine forests.
Please be mindful and respectful of this most precious and sacred land. Keep your distance from wildlife, and don’t startle any animals. Always bring more water than you will need, and wear protective and proper hiking attire, sunscreen and a hat.
If you are a runner who’s up for a fun and adventurous team challenge, sign up for the Ragnar Trail SoCal, a long-distance team relay event that emphasizes camaraderie, endurance and adventure. It’s Friday and Saturday, Oct. 24 and 25 (two days, one night), on the Los Coyotes Reservation, and it’s known to be one of Ragnar’s most challenging trail races, with mountainous terrain, spectacular desert views and crisp mountain air. It’s about 113 miles, with a total elevation gain of 23,800 feet, or 14.1 miles and 2,975 feet for each runner on a typical team of eight. Register and get full details, including team pricing and a course map, at runragnar.com/pages/race-trail-socal.