Messy but delicious!

What: Crispy chicken tacos

Where: La Fe Wine Bar, 73900 El Paseo, Palm Desert

How much: $15

Contact: 760-565-1430; lafewinebar.com

Why: They’re as unique as they are tasty.

On the eastern end of El Paseo, just before office buildings and medical offices take over the street as it curves into Highway 111, sits one of the chic thoroughfare’s best places for a bite and a drink: La Fe Wine Bar.

The hubby and I went there one recent Saturday when we had some time to kill before meeting friends for dinner elsewhere. We got a patio table, ordered a couple of appetizers and a cocktail—and soon found ourselves wishing we could stay at La Fe for dinner.

The reason: Everything we had was stellar, including the surprisingly smooth California sazerac ($15.50, with brandy, whisky, sugar, two types of bitters and an absinthe rinse) and the umami-packed mushroom truffle flatbread ($15).

As good as those two items were, the thing I can’t stop thinking about is the crispy chicken tacos. While the name “crispy chicken tacos” sounds pretty standard, the tacos that arrived were anything but standard: Instead of a tortilla, these four tacos came in wonton shells that contained chicken, sour cream, feta cheese, a chipotle aioli, greens and an heirloom tomato slice.

They were absolutely splendid. The pieces of white-meat chicken were seasoned nicely, with the aioli and sour cream adding creaminess, and the greens adding freshness. Yum.

Our only quibble: This appetizer is a potentially messy affair. Your first or second bite of each taco will inevitably cause the wonton shell to crack and collapse, sending the contents downward onto the plate, the table or—if you’re not careful—your shirt and/or lap.

Consider yourself warned—but consider yourself encouraged to order these crispy chicken tacos anyway. They’re definitely worth the risk.

Jimmy Boegle is the founding editor and publisher of the Coachella Valley Independent. He is also the executive editor and publisher of the Reno News & Review in Reno, Nev., and a 2026 inductee into...