What: French Onion Soup
Where: Freddie’s Kitchen at the Cole, 2323 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs
How much: $12
Contact: 760-544-2027; freddieskitchenatthecole.com
Why: The balance of flavors is perfect.
I had the French onion soup during a recent family dinner at a fancy steakhouse. I poked through the gooey cheese and took a sip of the broth—and was instantly disappointed. The savory flavor was tainted by a baffling amount of sweetness.
Such disappointment is not unusual; in fact, it happens more often than not when I order French onion soup. Sometimes, the broth is under-salted; other times, it’s shockingly bland. The quality of the cheese varies, and I’ve encountered gummy, cooked onion skins a time or three.
Other times, I’m fortunate enough to order a French onion soup that is revelatory—one that reminds me why it’s one of my favorite dishes when done right. Well, I am happy to say that the French onion soup at Freddie’s Kitchen is most definitely done right.
Freddie’s is one of those places that’s been on my list of places to try for a while, and we finally made it on a recent weeknight. Only a handful of other tables were occupied, and chef Frederic Pierrel went back and forth between cooking in the kitchen and joking with customers in the dining room. Everything we ordered, from the peppered elk medallions ($38) to the braised short rib rigatoni bolognaise ($30 and also endorsement-worthy), was delicious—but that French onion soup was nearly perfect.
The gruyere was a mix of crispy and creamy. The broth was impeccably seasoned. The onions were cooked through and maintained just a hint of firmness. So, so delicious.
I highly recommend Freddie’s Kitchen at the Cole. Chef Pierrel has been through the figurative wringer as of late, with the Cole Hotel just recently reopening after a closure due to a change in ownership. Go support him, and eat amazing food!
