CVI Crapcam
The chicken Caprese delicious—and pretty, too. Credit: CVI Crapcam

What: The Chicken Caprese

Where: Cello’s, 35943 Date Palm Drive, Cathedral City

How much: $18 for lunch; $20 for dinner

Contact: 760-328-5353;

Why: It’s subtly delicious.

The word “delicious” is surprisingly versatile. Most people use “delicious” to refer to yummy food, but didja know that the first definition of the word in the Merriam-Webster dictionary is simply “affording great pleasure”?

Of course, the second definition relates a little more specifically to food—“appealing to one of the bodily senses, especially of taste or smell,” to be exact—but regarding the word’s versatility, think about how many different foods you consider “delicious.” Some delicious foods figuratively smack you over the head with flavor; others are subtle, yet nonetheless incredibly enjoyable.

This brings us to the signature dish at Cello’s, a delightful restaurant tucked into a strip mall at Date Palm and Gerald Ford drives in Cathedral City. The chicken Caprese is not a plate that will smack you over the head with flavor—but it will indeed offer you great pleasure.

The dish is a symphony of mild flavors. The “lightly breaded” chicken breast is juicy and tender—almost schnitzel-like. The yellow and red cherry tomatoes are fresh, firm and slightly sweet. The mozzarella is smooth with just a hint of salt. Add in an ample amount of basil and olive oil, and the dish is set.

The result is an entrée that’s greater than the sum of its parts. No flavors dominate, but they all make their presence known. There are no big taste crescendos—just a perfect, harmonious, subtle melody.

If you’re looking for something that will knock your taste buds around, try something else. But if you want something fresh, filling and subtly splendid, we heartily endorse the chicken Caprese. It truly is delicious—in every sense of the word. 

Jimmy Boegle is the founding editor and publisher of the Coachella Valley Independent. He is also the executive editor and publisher of the Reno News & Review in Reno, Nev. A native of Reno, the Dodgers...