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Credit: CVI Crapcam

What: The coq au vin

Where: Dish Creative Cuisine, 68525 Ramon Road, No. A-101, Cathedral City

How much: $27

Contact info: 832-6526; www.dishcreativecuisine.com

Why: It’s moist. Oh, and it has bacon.

Dish Creative Cuisine opened last fall in a little shopping center on a stretch of Ramon Road that could best be described as … spartan. But inside the little space, chef/owner Joane Garcia-Colson is doing big things. (Want a surprise? Google the chef. Yes, that’s her. Quite a career change, no?)

The biggest thing of all may be the restaurant’s signature dish, the coq au vin. I’ll be honest: When this plate of food arrived, and I first pushed my fork into the cake-shaped cube, I was concerned that the coq au vin would be dry. After all, this chicken wasn’t sitting in the red-wine reduction sauce (which was drizzled on the side), but was rather crafted into the aforementioned cake-shaped cube. But those concerns were unfounded: This tasty, savory dish was moist and beyond delicious.

And, yes, it’s topped with bacon. Add several deliciousness points. The accompanying vegetables were all cooked perfectly, and there wasn’t a single flaw with the entree.

Of course, the coq au vin only arrived after the appetizers and drinks that my friend Shann and I ordered … and after about a half-dozen miniature chef’s surprises—think a joyously never-ending series of amuse-bouches. They were all tasty, but the star of these complimentary treats was a nipple-shaped beet puff with a hard meringue-like shell, and an a delicious creamy interior. I do not even like beets, and I wanted more of these.

But the star of the meal was Garcia-Colson’s coq au vin. Go. Eat it. Reservations recommended.

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Jimmy Boegle

Jimmy Boegle is the founding editor and publisher of the Coachella Valley Independent. He is also the executive editor and publisher of the Reno News & Review in Reno, Nev. A native of Reno, the Dodgers...