What: The fish tacos (Baja fried or grilled)

Where: Shanghai Reds, inside of Fisherman’s Market and Grill, 235 S. Indian Canyon Drive, Palm Springs

How much: $3.95, or $2.95 during late-night happy hour (8 p.m. to close)

Contact info: 322-9293; www.fishermans.com/shanghaireds.php

Why: Because of the tortilla. Trust us.

These tacos aren’t exactly a secret around these parts–they’re perennial honorees in the Desert Magazine Best of the Valley competition (not that you should necessarily value such honors all that much)–but we’re surprised at how many valley residents don’t know about the delights at Shanghai Reds, the bar/casual area tucked behind Fisherman’s (which also has a location in La Quinta).

The taco’s ingredients are not that unusual: The taco includes white fish, topped with pico de gallo, shredded cabbage, citrus and a tasty white sauce. What makes these fish tacos special is the wrapping–namely, the tortilla. It’s a thick corn variety that spends a moment or three on the grill before meeting its contents, and that maize/char/yummy flavor ties the whole package together.

Somewhere along the line, far too many Americans settled for tortillas that are mere packaging–flavorless vessels to deliver flavor to one’s mouth. Shanghai Reds reminds us that it’s not supposed to be that way–and proves that a good tortilla can make oh so much difference.

Jimmy Boegle

Jimmy Boegle is the founding editor and publisher of the Coachella Valley Independent. A native of Reno, Nevada, the Dodgers fan went to Stanford University intending to become a sportswriter—but fell...