The Steve Special (left), with some red snapper and a sushi tempura roll.

What: The Steve Special sushi roll, enjoyed as part of all-you-can-eat sushi

Where: Edokko Sushi, 69195 Ramon Road, Cathedral City

How much: $19.95 lunch, $23.99 dinner

Contact info: 328-7770; edokkosushicc.com

Why: Because you’re hungry, and you looooove tasty sushi rolls

Look, Edokko Sushi ain’t Nobu: You are not going to get fresh-off-the-boat toro here. Of course, you’re not going to be shelling out $35 for a tiny portion of fish, either.

Instead, you are going to get a decent-enough selection of 30 or so rolls, 16 or so sushi options, and some appetizers (miso soup, gyoza, etc.), as much as you can shove down your gullet, for $19.99 at lunch, or $23.99 at dinner.

Indulgent? Maybe. Gluttonous? Perhaps? A smokin’ deal? Absolutely.

The sushi pieces are just fine, but the real reason you will want to check out Edokko is for the sushi rolls: They’re tasty, and they come to you fast when the sushi chefs are on their game (which they generally are). The one we most heartily endorse is the “Steve Special” roll—it’s the first one on the list—which is quite simple, really: It’s a California roll, topped with deep-fried shrimp and a tangy mayonnaise sauce. In an word, it’s yummy.

If you’re hankering for all-you-can-eat sushi, but you’re weighed down by more moderate eaters, never fear: Edokko Sushi also offers an a la carte menu.

But you don’t want that. You want all-you-can-eat. And you should start off with the Steve Special roll. 

Jimmy Boegle is the founding editor and publisher of the Coachella Valley Independent. He is also the executive editor and publisher of the Reno News & Review in Reno, Nev. A native of Reno, the Dodgers...