Those toppings are nice—but the crust below them is what makes this pizza great.

What: The New York supreme pizza

Where: Palermo’s New York Pizza, 400 S. El Cielo Road, No. C, Palm Springs

How much: $24.99 for the extra large (16-inch), as shown

Contact: 760-416-1138; www.palermosnypizza.com

Why: The delicious, pliable, strong thin crust.

As deadline approaches for the print edition of this fine newspaper, I usually order a huge pizza. It’s not the healthiest thing, but it’s convenient and time-saving: Whenever I get hungry, I can grab a slice or two out of the fridge and chow down as I work.

I have my usual go-to pizza places, but this month, I decided to try somewhere different: Palermo’s New York Pizza. I have seen people rave about the place on the social-media sites, but I’d never been there before. So as deadline approached, I went online to the Palermo’s website and ordered what seemed like the logical pie, given the pizzeria’s full name—the New York supreme pizza.

Well, now I have what will become another usual go-to pizza place.

There was nothing on top of this huge pizza that made it stand out: The ample toppings were all good, and the sauce was decent, but nothing made me jump up and down. What did have me (figuratively) hopping was what was on the other side of the pizza—the crust.

Much is made of the strong pliability of good thin-crust New York pizza: The crust should be sturdy enough to support all of the yumminess on top, yet flexible enough for on-the-go folding and devouring. However, the crust at many so-called “New York-style” pizza places fails on at least one of these criteria.

Palermo’s pizza does not: It passes the two-prong test with flying colors. It’s delicious, too—elevating the pizza from “pretty good” to “I think I want to order another one.”

Jimmy Boegle is the founding editor and publisher of the Coachella Valley Independent. He is also the executive editor and publisher of the Reno News & Review in Reno, Nev. A native of Reno, the Dodgers...